The undoubted popularity of hip-hop in Tanzania suggests, after a decade of local creativity, there is now a vibrant local fashion industry is supported by urban contemporary artists at the top and the media should be.
In fact, there have been some local initiatives, with hip-hop artists to publish their own material (remember Gangwe Gear, has Gangwe Mobb around 2001?) All operators so that their names be gin produced locally. But the transition from localized products truly innovative international fashion signature is a slow process, and successful local fashion brands have little.
One of the stars that shine in the clothing industry in Tanzania is an urban clothing from China. Recently launched remigrated Tanzania Mkuki Bgoya and business partner Susan Moses, a slow month, China has managed to create a buzz and growing demand, even got the attention of some imitators.
Africanhiphop.com Mkuki talked about the philosophy behind the brand, the cultural landscape of East Africa in 2009, much heralded revival of international interest in Africa and how the benefits of youth in Africa and the existence of a unique mode identification Tanzania.
Clothing mkuki_photoWhos back movies?
Two people behind China Klothing me and Susan Moses. Susan is a co-owner and responsible for all
the products in the United States and Europe. It also helps to market the brand there and take care of all business, economics and finance. I am mainly involved in the creation and activities here in Bongo.
Who is the target of choice?
China is for anyone looking for clothing that is well thought of materials and high quality graphics with something they can identify. Kina people from many different backgrounds enlargement, not only people of African descent. We had orders from all over the world, is truly wonderful.
What makes China stand out?
Put simply, China is original. We have much work to find concepts that appear below in graphical form. This is something that is not the clothes, which is influenced by Africa. It's like hip hop right: The data you need to drive, not only for writing the lines rhyme, is a constant struggle and hard work.
How did you find inspiration for designing clothes?
He was very inspired by the need, the need for clothing that has been created by our mind. At the time I lived in the United States and it was very difficult to get a T-piece, which had graphics that can talk to me. The rare teas that I could find were very bad, poor quality graphics in real fabric. Very cliche and photos!
How related to urban culture of Tanzania and hip-hop growing up? I grew up in Dar es Salaam in the '80s and '90s, a time when young people in my country is just beginning to develop a little place in the cultural sector. My parents come from different backgrounds, both for me urban Dar es Salaam is the culture, I strongly identified with, and felt myself part of the tribe of Dar if you want. I used to go to many concerts in the early years of the TZ hip-hop and the privilege to see is, had occurred. It was very difficult to find hip-hop group at that time werent included most artists, and of course the radio does not play hip-hop TZ.
What was your perception of how people dressed in TZ in the '80s and '90s?
There is a particular style of dress, or are inspired by the use of colors, this time in your planning?
Not necessarily, at least not now, when I do mostly graphic tees. Although I think some of these trends are becoming more popular again so it is very possible future for our music.
In what form do you think Tanzanian urban style (clothes, music, material culture, etc.) has changed since the mid 90's?
I think the urban style of expression is now more than ever is a good thing. There are many designers who come now to do many things, so I think that is really a plus, at least in the clothing industry. But this time, the music feels a little flat, which in the 90s, everything was new to radio, television, hip-hop (at least the parent commands), everything was new, and all the world was to try something new and different, because there was no formula for what is good and what was not. It seems now that 80 percent of the music I hear sounds the same, content is the same, the production of music is the same. It's like we're in limbo equal great fest! Do not get me wrong, there are people pushing forward, but I feel like TZ Hip-Hop is a victim of its own popularity. While change is good. I often wonder if the first born again to die much stronger and with new meaning. Unfortunately for our music, it seems that the incentive of money, at present, the boundaries between art and commerce is very delicate and sensitive. Culture evolves even imagine that there is a sense of urgency for quick money to make never seen before, some people call it awakening. I am still struggling to understand, and at the end for us.
It is clear and even Tanzania Dar es Salaam sense of fashion?
This is an age old question in Tanzania: What is the national costume of Tanzania, for example? Constantly bombarded with influences from around the world and I believe we are still at a point where they will be subjected to those influences, mainly Western, and that using local materials such Khanga, vitenge and pearls. So, this is not necessarily a unique idea of how Tanzania. However, if you are popular expressions of fashion around the world, is becoming increasingly clear that we are in a kind of global culture and it will be interesting to see how to find it when you try to create our own aesthetic.
Do you think it is important to refer to the traditional (and neo-traditional, as Kanga) styles of contemporary African fashion?
Yes, I think is important as a foundation for recovery, not a destination in its own too! The Khanga for example, earn a lot of attention today, and designers use it in different ways. It is a source of inspiration thats ok. However, I do not think any African designer is forced to borrow from a strictly traditional African style. The generation before us are many styles and cultures than ever before will now be suspended in a vacuum, of course, all these factors will affect our work with creative people. It is a major concern if some of our work affects the return to traditional forms and also great, if other species beyond our borders.
If you are the first collection, we see that we are affected by Tanzania, but not necessarily something you can only go aha! I Khanga or zig-zag pattern is in Africa! It must come from Africa. And here, as you bring something new or make your own experience, man, that's all that is truly important.
Do you think that the last five years been a resurgence of cultural pride African theres;
I think that cultural pride, it was always, I see it more as cultural awareness and balance the need to express to the outside. Like most of us see or hear other Africans do interesting things, pushing the limits of what we have always associated with Africa, awareness continues to grow. For too long we have only heard of the failure, we use things that do not work as desired. This had an impact on confidence and our ability to see inside.
If the average teenager in Africa in any way benefit the revival of international interest and the urban culture of African-Or is primarily a discussion and interest is in the West?
I have not seen the bottom of the renewed interest in Africa to see if it will be renewed. The renewal is I do not think the media in Africa in any way, as the images havent even started yet, the variety and complexity of our people believe. I think that this debate takes place mainly in the west, because of what might be called the factor Obama. His coming to power - the most powerful man on earth - as a black man is the first time in history that black people in general is certainly not to say that we, like others. I do not know to what extent it is relevant to Africa, though! Perhaps it is too early to determine whether there will be benefits.
Young Africans are now more than before? I'm not convinced. For me, it is important that the interest in Africa.
Perhaps the West can play an important role in what is to attract urban youth in Africa today and are there other forces at work - think of the Internet, multimedia pan-African, Congolese music player, Entertainment, NollywoodThe West continues to exercise considerable influence, but not like before, because the forces you mention. In other words, there is more competition for the attention of the African youth of today than the days when the only influences from Europe and America.
Film and television are important factors in this change of attitude, there are plenty of local content in these channels than ever. Young people must choose between Nollywood, Bollywood and Hollywood. Topics covered in Nollywood films are coordinated with most of what comes out of Mumbai or California.
Today many of your plans are Western-style T-shirts printed. You plan for
.
the development of specific tissue structures or parts;
Yes, we are different products that are added to make progress. We are a clothing company, not a single brand T-shirt, there will be many more interesting things to experiment with new media, and so many crazy things in preparation.
Perhaps to support local music and / actress / media people in your shirts?
Yes, we sponsored in cooperation with local talent and we had some great rock stars of our teas. If you dig what they do is natural.
Your efforts appreciated and supported by the people of Tanzania?
Yes, the reaction was very nice, very impressive. People are what we are trying to do was to go, spread the word about China. The people are entitled to receive from China and get hit and made his mark so the mark, which is already spreading like wildfire. I receive many responses from people telling me how proud are from China, like our motto Vitu vyetu.
Kivyetu. China supports both this course.
But Tanzanians are generally in favor of local brands more than ever, I believe this is proof of the Foundation, the hip-hop as TZ. We support it, so, for creativity at the local level.
kina_mulikaYou some icons using only hard to be able to claim copyright, but you're the first person to them, as Mwenge (flash) image. How to deal with piracy and imitators of culture;
We claim copyright in concepts. I am a communication designer by profession, and what I do is to communicate ideas and tell stories visually. Since we are not just words, just images, should play in knowledge about the things that people recognize. We have what we are a visual language, which encourages people to understand what you are trying to say. For example, the flame, you just mentioned, is very good agreement! But if you marry three visual cliche, a torch, a microphone and a punch, you start to see a story taking shape. It will not be there to explain the work should speak for themselves. We tee Mulika as Kiswahili, is highlighted. You see, no one can copyright a microphone, a camera or a punch. The term comes to the realization of these models and how they merge the images to say something new. The result is that China copyright Klothing! The same goes for the rest of our collection.
Piracy and the imitators of the culture of the big problems in Africa, partly for this reason, a quick thinking buck. Some people are not prepared to sweat and countless audience shares all night, and tears that come with the creative process. It is hard work and should have a passion for it. To counter this, it will be good for the lawyers of the copyright in the sting, and all our work is protected.
If the idea of the person who is always one step ahead, people will know soon enough who leads and follows.
China is a side view of the work for you or if you have high expectations of the international expansion?
Today is one of the projects involved in. He also runs a design firm, branding Spearhead, I am also involved in the adoption of a family business, Mkuki na Nyota. What you will see much cross-pollination in all these areas.
As I said many foolish things and experiment. One thing we do not take on the fashion industry or something interesting! We just want to do an excellent job, the press, new ideas and work with interesting people, and to keep it fun.
What are your plans for distribution to TZ;
We have a few things and our teas are available by Tanzania in Dar Verlagsbuchhandlung at 47, Samora Avenue. We plan to expand and cover more areas. We just want to do things properly and the link to the right people who can stay faithful to our brand.